Here’s a quick tip for getting good exposures of both very dark and very light subjects. When photographing a dark subject, such as this leopard seal that I photographed in Antarctica, set your exposure compensation to -1. When photographing a white subject, such as this polar bear that I photographed in the Sub-Arctic, set your exposure compensation to +1.
I know that sounds backward, but it’s actually true. Very dark and very light subjects can fool a camera’s exposure meter into thinking that the scene is darker or brighter than it is in reality.
By the way, those are just starting points for a good exposure. As always, check your histogram to get the very best in-camera exposure. You can’t trust your camera’s LCD monitor when it comes to exposure and color.
Think backward, and you’ll remember this tip.
Both of these photographs were taken with my Canon 100-400mm IS lens, my favorite zoom lens for wildlife photography.
Speaking of wildlife photography, here are some additional tips:
- Shoot eye-to-eye;
- Make sure the eyes are in focus and well lit;
- Watch the background;
- Get a good guide who can get you close to animals;
- Dress for success (good gloves in cold weather are very important).
December 3rd, 2009 at 11:02 am
Rick, Thanks for the tip on exposure compensation. I have been following your photography a long time. I attended two of your seminars in Indianapolis, IN and applied many of your tips to my work. Your new website The Digital Photo Experience is awesome…It is packed with so much valuble content. Keep up the great work!
Thanks,
Gary Christy
Life Through Lenses Photography
Focusing On You
http://www.lifethroughlenses.com
December 3rd, 2009 at 11:13 am
Another great tip. Don’t see many polar bears in SE La. but I’ll remember this next time I’m UCAP with a gator.
December 3rd, 2009 at 12:52 pm
Thanks for writing this, snow has arrived here in Northern B.C. and I was trying to explain this to a friend of mine, but I was second-guessing myself because it “sounded backwards”. Good to know I had it right!
December 3rd, 2009 at 1:39 pm
Thank you very much for the tip…
I did realised that but could never fully work out why, it was always a hit and miss (using the exposure metre, never formally tested it out using exp compensation). Thanks again!
December 3rd, 2009 at 2:42 pm
Great post Rick. Thanks for sharing such and simple yet effective tip. Loving the new site by the way.
December 3rd, 2009 at 4:45 pm
So how do you manage to operate a camera with gloves on? Or do you take them off and work quickly? Got any useful tips?
Thanks.
December 3rd, 2009 at 4:49 pm
Operating camera with gloves is tricky. I usually use a liner inside my heavier gloves and remove the heavy glove when shooting. There are other gloves that allow for exposed finger tips, and Aquatech has now come out with an innovative glove that looks like an awesome solution if you are shooting in the cold often. Check them out here: http://www.outdoorphotogear.com/store/aquatech-sensory-gloves.html
-J
December 4th, 2009 at 3:45 pm
I use Freestone gloves from Simms, a fishing company, and their fantastic. They are fingerless with a flip over mitten and a flip over THUMB which I think is pretty cool, especially for photography purposes. They’re fleece lined with Windstopper, a material that cuts the wind, which is super important with fleece. They wouldn’t be warm enough for really cold weather but you could do as Juan says and wear a liner inside them too for the really cold stuff. You should take a look!
http://www.simmsfishing.com/site/windstopper_foldover_mitt_2009.html